2014 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel Intake Replacement

Theres a million and a half of howto’s on forums. I’ve tried weeding through them.. this, at least, is how i did mine.

Tools needed –

  • platform to stand on (it sucks to lean over this thing)
  • General Metric/Imperial sockets (deep-well, and shorties)
  • Torx bits cut-down
  • Fuel Line Disconnects
  1. remove turbo air inlet to the rubber elbow on the turbo
  2. remove turbo outlet that goes over the left side of the engine
  3. remove and set aside the throttle intake pipe
  4. remove sound dampiner “foam”
  5. Put a rag in the intercooler pipe (to keep things from falling into it)
  6. unplug PCV from the D/S and set to side (you dont need to fully remove it)
  7. remove engine cover support bracket (3x 8mm)
  8. remove EGR tube
  9. Remove Steel plate and dampiner “foam” covering the HPFP on the P/S – this gives you access to unhook the fuel lines
    • NOTE – you WANT to unhook the lines, they are ceramic and i’ve read will break if you mess with them too much. I’ve had no issues with priming later
  10. Unhook Fuel lines from HPFP – NOTE the line positions and remove from HPFP (see picture gallery)
  11. (top of engine) remove fuel lines going to a distribution mount – these are able to just be moved aside behind the Oil fil neck
  12. remove fuel distribution bolt (10MM i think), injector line, and fuel rail line
  13. remove fuel hard line (that was going under the distribution) from the fuel rail and the bottom of the HPFP. i understand its ceramic.. i’ve seen people bend these.. i wouldnt.
  14. start unplugging connectors that go up and over-
    • DONT WORRY about the 2 plugs on the throttle (beyond the big plug on the side of the throttle). just unplug It the sensors under the throttle all come out in a second
    • all 6 glow plugs – you just firmly pull from the tab
    • Driverside injector plugs
    • oil sensors (yep, all the way down there too)
    • whatever that silver top thing is..
    • Driverside Cam sensor
    • Turbo sensors –
      • Note: theres a stupid plug that goes down the back with a completely different type of slide/plug.. its a pain. its is NOT a push down you have to pull the “button” out, if that makes sense. once you do the connector just slides out (see pictures)
    • basically, follow the bundle going from the injectors down to the side of the engine. unplug whatever you find :-/
    • Dont forget the PCV sensor on the turbo inlet elbow
    • i also unplgged the rear-most Passenger Side injector and fuel rail to make moving the harness around easier
  15. Remove fuel rail patch lines (to each injector) – NOTE WHICH ONES GO TO WHO
  16. Remove fuel line that goes over to the P/S fuel rail – DONT worry about the P/S fuel rail.. you can do this with just the D/S
  17. Pull throttle assy off (4x 8MM)
    • pull the front off first, then the buterfly assy. carefully unplug the cable – dont worry about anything else under there, they all come out with the intake
  18. remove turbo inlet elbow (rubber, hose clamp)
  19. remove charge elbow from turbo (outlet) – (2x 5MM HEX) this one is tricky. you need a rounded tip Hex, one of the bolts is under the elbow of the pipe and you dont get a straight shot at it.

    At this point everything really should be cleared away and a straight-shot to the intake should be in front of you. DONT start yanking yet.. its a ruse!
  20. Remove the D/S fuel rail – this is another tricky one. Its a Torx head. I cut down a bit and used a wrench to break the bolt lose and then just fingered it off. I couldnt tell you its size because the side that had it is gone. T8? I cut it down to just enough to put a wrench on it. i put some tape on it to keep from losing the bit
  21. Remove the Intake – (11x 8mm?) the front-most and the 2 rear most are tight.. use a 1/4″ with extension
    NOTE: the intake will need a bit of “finesse” to get out and back in. With enough wiggling and farting around with it.. it comes out..


NOTE the fuel lines going to which port
new braided line in
special cut off torx tool and wrench for the fuel rail
on the turbo, PULL the tab, dont press.
torque and order

At this point, I’d suggest replacing the intake and doing the reverse. I’m also replacing the Turbo coolant line – it ruptured on me after I did the intake. so now i’m doing all this again.

Picking up from the intake being off, this part was kind’ve a P.I.T.A. if you care enough, you can get the turbo heat sheild off – i didnt. You’ll see a lot of pictures online where people mangled the crap of the heat sheild to get to the coolant banjo bolt. While i did bend it, i didnt destroy it, LOL. just take the oil cooler line off from the top, you can bend it over a bit (though admititly, it was a complete pain to get formed back) to get to the bolt for the coolant line. Unbolt, replace, put back. donezo.

At this point, you’ve got everything squared away.. start putting it back together in the reverse.

Tips on it all going back in –

  • Be sure you lined the injector fuel lines and have them tight – i had mine leak all over the place!
  • i cleaned the intake tubes on the heads with a pick and a vacuum. you’ll know what i mean when you see it, you wont want to be putting it all back together with all that crap in there.
  • for the intake – drop all of the bolts in their holes BEFORE you start finger tightening them in place and (obviously) torquing them. there’s 2 bolts in the back (you remember them, dontcha?) its a trick to get them to drop in. THEN start going around and finger tightening/torque. they DONT take a whole lot of torque.. i think maybe 9#? dont quote me.. consult the googles
  • for priming – turn the key and let it run a couple times. you also may “crack” one of the injector fuel lines to relieve air. I had “okay” luck with just letting the electric pump prime a bunch of times on its own without relieving the lines. it cranked over on the first try (3 or 4 uggas of the engine)

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