2014 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel Intake Replacement
Theres a million and a half of howto’s on forums. I’ve tried weeding through them.. this, at least, is how i did mine.
Tools needed –
- platform to stand on (it sucks to lean over this thing)
- General Metric/Imperial sockets (deep-well, and shorties)
- Torx bits cut-down
- Fuel Line Disconnects
- remove turbo air inlet to the rubber elbow on the turbo
- remove turbo outlet that goes over the left side of the engine
- remove and set aside the throttle intake pipe
- remove sound dampiner “foam”
- Put a rag in the intercooler pipe (to keep things from falling into it)
- unplug PCV from the D/S and set to side (you dont need to fully remove it)
- remove engine cover support bracket (3x 8mm)
- remove EGR tube
- Remove Steel plate and dampiner “foam” covering the HPFP on the P/S – this gives you access to unhook the fuel lines
- NOTE – you WANT to unhook the lines, they are ceramic and i’ve read will break if you mess with them too much. I’ve had no issues with priming later
- NOTE – you WANT to unhook the lines, they are ceramic and i’ve read will break if you mess with them too much. I’ve had no issues with priming later
- Unhook Fuel lines from HPFP – NOTE the line positions and remove from HPFP (see picture gallery)
- (top of engine) remove fuel lines going to a distribution mount – these are able to just be moved aside behind the Oil fil neck
- remove fuel distribution bolt (10MM i think), injector line, and fuel rail line
- remove fuel hard line (that was going under the distribution) from the fuel rail and the bottom of the HPFP
- start unplugging connectors that go up and over-
- DONT WORRY about the 2 plugs on the throttle (beyond the big plug on the side of the throttle). just unplug IT the sensors under the throttle all come out in a second
- all 6 glow plugs
- D/S injectors
- oil sensors (yep, all the way down there too)
- whatever that silver top thing is..
- D/S Cam sensor
- Turbo sensors
- basically, follow the bundle going from the injectors down to the side of the engine. unplug whatever you find :-/
- Dont forget the PCV sensor on the turbo inlet elbow
- Note: theres a stupid plug that goes down the back with a completely different type of slide/plug.. its a pain. its is NOT a push down you have to pull the “button” out, if that makes sense. once you do the connector just slides out (see pictures)
- i also unplgged the rear-most P/S injector and fuel rail to make moving the harness around easier
- remove fuel rail patch lines (to each injector) – NOTE WHICH ONES GO TO WHO
- Remove fuel line that goes over to the P/S fuel rail – DONT worry about the P/S fuel rail.. you can do this with just the D/S
- Pull throttle assy off (4x 8MM)
- pull the front off first, then the buterfly assy. carefully unplug the cable – dont worry about anything else under there
- remove turbo inlet elbow (rubber, hose clamp)
- remove charge elbow from turbo (outlet) – (2x 5MM HEX) this one is tricky. you need a rounded tip Hex, one of the bolts is under the elbow of the pipe and you dont get a straight shot at it.
At this point everything really should be cleared away and a straight-shot to the intake should be in front of you. - Remove the D/S fuel rail – this is another tricky one. Its a Torx head. I cut down a bit and used a wrench to break the bolt lose and then just fingered it off. I couldnt tell you its size because the side that had it is gone. T8? I cut it down to just enough to put a wrench on it. i put some tape on it to keep from losing the bit
- Remove the Intake – (11x 8mm?) the front-most and the 2 rear most are tight.. use a 1/4″ with extension
NOTE: the intake will need a bit of “finesse” to get out and back in.





At this point, I’d suggest replacing the intake and doing the reverse. I’m also replacing the Turbo coolant line – it ruptured on me after I did the intake. so now i’m doing all this again.
Picking up from the intake being off, this part was kind’ve a P.I.T.A. if you care enough, you can get the turbo heat sheild off – i didnt. You’ll see a lot of pictures online where people mangled the crap of the heat sheild to get to the coolant banjo bolt. While i did bend it, i didnt destroy it, LOL. just take the oil cooler line off from the top, you can bend it over a bit (though admititly, it was a complete pain to get formed back) to get to the bolt for the coolant line. Unbolt, replace, put back. donezo.
Tips on it all going back in –
- for the intake – drop all of the bolts in their holes BEFORE you start finger tightening them in place and (obviously) torquing them. theres 2 bolts in the back (you rememeber them, dontcha?) its a trick to get them to drop in. THEN start going around and finger tightening/torque
- for priming – turn the key and let it run a couple times. you also may “crack” one of the injector fuel lines to relieve air. I had “okay” luck with just letting the electric pump prime a bunch of times on its own without relieving the lines. it cranked over on the first try (3 or 4 uggas of the engine)